A Morning at Banteay Chhmar: Cambodia’s Temple of the Hidden Faces

If you’ve already explored the grand temples of Angkor, let me share a lesser-known gem that feels like stepping into a forgotten world: Banteay Chhmar. Tucked away about 60 kilometers from Siem Reap, this sprawling temple complex is one of Cambodia’s most awe-inspiring yet under-visited sites. Built in the 12th century by Jayavarman VII, it’s famous for its intricate bas-reliefs and the hauntingly beautiful ‘face towers’ that rival those of Bayon—but without the crowds.

As you wander through the moss-covered ruins, you’ll notice carvings telling stories of ancient battles and daily life, all wrapped in a serene jungle setting. The temple is part of a living community, so you’ll often see local children playing nearby or monks in saffron robes offering blessings. The best time to visit is early morning, when the light filters through the trees and the air is cool.

Getting there is an adventure in itself—a scenic drive through rural villages and rice paddies. You can hire a driver for the day, and many tours include a stop at the nearby Banteay Chhmar village to see traditional silk weaving. It’s a full-day trip that rewards you with solitude and a deeper connection to Cambodia’s heritage.

After a day of temple exploration, the guesthouse offers a relaxed, welcoming base for your trip.